Getting hit at the Pasola © www.michaelbierman.net

SUMBA ISLAND - The Pasola

Sumba is sparse and dry and one of the poorest islands in Indonesia. The residents are original, traditional and religious people. Tourism infrastructure is very basic, however, there is much to discover in Sumba: a rich culture, traditional lifestyle, bizarre landscapes, unspoilt nature and beautiful beaches.

Maybe the biggest attraction of Sumba is the traditional ceremony known as Pasola. The Pasola is performed by horse riders armed with spears. Two villagers face each other in a mock but far from serious battle. Every year, these ceremonies are held in Wanokaka, Kodi and Lamboya around February and March, and on certain holidays such as 17th August, when dance performances and horse races are also held in conjunction. Other attractions are megalithic stone tombs, traditional high roofed houses and outstanding weavings.

People of Sumba © Bart Coenders
A perfect beach on Sumba © Jim Picot
Traditional clothing on Sumba © Bart Coenders
Boat in front of Sumba island © Piero Malaer
Getting hit at the Pasola © Michael Biermann

Sights to see in Sumba

The Pasola is an extremely extravagante and bloody harvest festival It is a re-enacted battle between two villages, as they still took place a few decades ago. In this war game ritual many dozens of riders compete against each other. For hours they gallop bareback on their horses and hurl their spears at each other with full force. The spears are indeed dull, yet sometimes riders are injured an sometimes even deaths occure. The Pasola takes place each year in February in the Kodi area and the Lamboya area and in March in the Wanokaka area and the Gaura Area west of Lamboya. In order to get the exacte dates of the Pasola call hotels in Waingapu or Waikabubak.
Beside the Pasola, Sumba is also well known for the excellent Ikat weavings. Traditional Ikat weavings are made from natural dyes and are therefore highly priced by collectors.
Waikabubak is a good starting point for exploring the traditional villages around the city. Virtually on every wooded hill in the city and around it are traditional villages. To explore it you need no guide, but can reach everything on foot.
About 20 Km east of Waikabubak, near the village of Pasunga, you find the largest megalithic stone tombs in Sumba. Sumba is one of the very few places in the world where the practice of burial in megaliths remains intact.
However, to avoid difficulties with villagers that might be offended by tourists taking photos, we recommend to hire a local guide who also provides you with intersting information and the knowledge where you find the most interessting spots. At least have some small presents like cigarettes available and don′t forget to make a small donation.

Getting there & Around

Sumba has two airports, one in Waingapu and one in Tambulaka. Both are served by only two airlines, Merpati and TransNusa. Both airlines connect Sumba with Denpasar in Bali and with Kupang in Timor.
An alternative are once again the Pelni cruise ships, which approache Sumba every 2 weeks.
Sumba also has a ferry connection to Flores. The ASDP service connects Waingapu with the ports in Ende and in Aimere, each once a week. Please check the exact schedule in a ASDP office, as this is subject to change.

All major cities have good bus connections. Between Waingapu and Waikabubak there are five buses per day, which take about 5 hours. From Waikabubak to the west, buses leave almost every hour to Waitabula.

Hotel & Accomodation in Sumba

Budget

Hotel Artha, Waikabubak

Jl. Veteran 11, Waikabubak
Phone: +0387/21112
Rooms with fan and shower. The management will help you organizing your tour.

Budget

Hotel Elvin, Waingapu

Jl. Ahmad Yani 73, Waingapu
Phone: +0387/61462
Air conditioned rooms are available. Maybe the best place to stay in Waingapu.

High End

Nihiwatu Hotel

The 438 acres of tropical forest, rice terraces and grasslands are wrapped around the stunning two and half kilometer long Nihiwatu beach, which is protected on both ends by cliffs and headlands ensuring total exclusivity.

Tour operators & Links

Suma Adventure Tour offers several Sumba travel tours.
Sumbatours also has a interesting tour program.
If you want to connect your surf trip with a cultural tour to Sumba, try the site of Indonesian Surfaris.